Friday, October 09, 2009
I'm sorry that Conde Nast has decided to fold Gourmet. Although I seldom read it, I like magazines, and Gourmet was a classy one. I also liked that Ruth Reichl was the editor. Reichl is cut from the same kind of cloth as other great magazine editors, a larger-than-life figure who was famous for going to restaurants she was going to review in disguise. She wrote a memoir that belongs on the shelf with M.F.K. Fisher's books, and from all reports she worked hard to keep Gourmet from being just a version of Town & Country about souffles. It can't have been easy being the Anna Wintour of poached pears, and it's a pity that Conde Nast reckons that we've gone so far down the Rachel Ray road that there is no longer a way to sustain the publication. Too bad-- I'd have liked to have written something for it someday.